Sassy, Brassy, and sometimes Silly, I Surf, Write, Philosophize...and often shamelessly BS my way through this crazy adventure called Life...
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Slam. Bam. Thank you. Ma'am.
NADINE: She came up fast, flat to crescendo, to wane all in 24 hours. Oh, but when she came, she came hard and loud and long! I put in 6 hours on Sunday and another 2 Monday morning. I am so beat up, so sore, shoulders, back, bleary eyes from salt...water impacted nostrils. I got a few good waves here and there, but mostly she slapped me around some, wrenched my shoulder and whiplashed my neck, twice! Just like the last go around with Leslie...gotta find me some less domineering swell...that's my bro btw, walking down the path after his surf Monday morning; he's in a few action shots as well...we both started surfing at the same time back in '74...both in our 50's and still keen on it...not bad for a coupla old farts who can barely climb to our feet anymore...
That first B&W shot is the day before the swell hit; the color ones following are like when Dorothy landed in Oz...I surfed my my semi-secret spot alone for awhile before a few dudes paddled out...surfed absolutely epic Rivermouth late in the afternoon; world-class came to Maine for a few short hours...I woulda taken more, and better pics, but I was scrambling back up the path to get my board and suit just after snapping a few quick ones...the shots with my brother and a few others are the next morning when it all mellowed...though I was out earlier when there was still some grinding sets breaking on the low-tide...
Reports from just about everywhere came in about how awesome this short lived (one day mostly) swell was...I'm glad everyone got some and went home sated and surfed out...even the River wasn't that crowded cuz most were just too tired to paddle out again...I was too...but me, I'm a glutton for some punishment baby...oh yeah, harder baby, harder...
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)


















No comments:
Post a Comment