Mike & Leslie, sittin in a tree…Mike & Leslie,
churnin up the sea…
This past week of tropical swell event has been an odyssey
of sorts, so much went down, too much to absorb in entirety…I will offer a few
images, a few words:
Words:
Salps & Sunfish…glassy, onshore, offshore…heaving,
grinding, thumping, whumping…solo, crowded, SUPS galore…handplane sesh, Pug
sessions, semi-gun, shortboard…calm between sets; chaos during sets…paddle,
paddle, paddle…ragdoll, and long rides…really, really, looonnnngggg rides!!!...long
closeouts too…friends and locals…douchebags and wave hogs…late nite ding
repair; twice!...collision with SUP; collision with own board…black & blue
& purple & green…whiplashed neck; twice!...achy shoulders, tired arms,
bruised ribs, wetsuit pit rash, wetsuit neck rash...little piggy with no roast
beef, still sore and busted…long sessions, great rides, many epic wipeouts,
hold downs, tumbles and bumbles…sunburned lips and cheeks; salt-burning eyes…only
one session at a different spot, but the rest, all brought to me courtesy of
The Rivermouth; love my spot; we go way back…memories behind us, more to come…surfed
out, sated…stoked!
Images:
No comments:
Post a Comment