While driving down to my sister's house on The Cape for Thanksgiving one year, my youngest, who was about 5 at the time, marvelled at the bright lights and nightscape as we drove through Boston. From the backseat he exclaimed: "It's like DREAM WORLD!" What struck me most was his childlike sense of wonder at the world around him and it ocurred to me that I hoped he would never lose that.
Today, while sitting in the lineup on another gray day, the late setting sun suddenly poured through the fracturing clouds and lit up the sky, the sea, and the waves around me. Now it was already a good session: Waist-high with just a whisper of offshore wind and my board was well suited for the clean, but slightly mushy conditions. But omg, in an instant, the gray water turned rippling shades of magenta and cyan, reflecting the pinks, oranges, and blues of the clouds and sky. Spray fanned off the tops of the waves in burnished golds and the wave faces hued emerald green. Silvering water droplets beaded on the wax covering my lavender board. White hulled gulls soared against a backdrop of God's rays and a distant rain shower pouring down from gray rimmed clouds scudding over the horizon. I sat in wonder inbetween sets, taking it all in, my jaw gaping I'm sure, thinking how blessed we surfers are to see, and feel, smell, and taste, and experience glorious moments like this that most land-bound people will never know...and it ocurred to me...it was like DREAM WORLD...
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